Tradition and modernity meet at Frieda, a new restaurant at The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore.
The restaurant is named after Frieda, daughter of Berthold Kempinski, founder of the Kempinski Hotels. Although it visibly flanks the thoroughfare of Capitol Building’s indoor galleria, its pastel green, wood and floral theme gives off decidedly secret garden vibes.
Whether you roost at Frieda’s Day Bar (where TAP Craft Beer used to be), Frieda’s Garden just beside it, or the Dining Room opposite, expect homely hospitality and generous servings of modern German and Austrian cuisine. As with other proponents of modern or new German cuisine, German chef Jan Mulik and his team strive to preserve tradition while adding modern touches, for instance, by using a consomme in the traditional beef soup with semolina dumplings (Griessnockerlsuppe) to enrich the flavour of the broth; cooking the wagyu beef brisket sous vide at 65˚C for 25 hours to get it evenly cooked and juicy; and using locally sourced fruits and vegetables.
For a hearty meal at Frieda, begin with the warming beef consomme with semolina dumplings, thin sliced herbal pancake, root vegetables and chive ($16). The consomme is extremely savoury, giving you a good shock to the system at the start of the meal. As you tuck in further, the flavours are balanced by the earthy notes of the vegetables and the light, fluffy semolina dumplings.
Cleanse your palate with one of Frieda’s bountiful salads. If you like your goat’s cheese, go for Frieda’s salad with goat cheese caramelised with honey ($25), brimming with seasonal organic lettuce and other ingredients such as brined beetroot, cherry tomato and pumpkin seeds, and a large dose of housemade vinaigrette. But a visit here is not complete without trying the traditional Wiener Schnitzel or Viennese Schnitzel ($37), a pan-fried breaded veal cutlet with homemade cranberry sauce, which comes with a moist and tender middle and and light and crisp skin.
End your meal on the fresh, tart notes of the semolina pudding with sour cherry compote ($12), or the slightly sweeter ones of the apple fritters with cinnamon sugar and vanilla ice cream ($12). For drinks, there’s no lack of cocktails, wines, spirits, and of course, beer-y good options, such as Frieda lager, a light and drinkable German draught beer and Schneider Weisse (from $10 for 300ml), a German wheat beer that’s smooth, creamy and sweet with a mildly bitter finish.
#01-87, 01-K1-K2 Capitol Piazza. Tel: 6715 6873